Sometimes the people who cook Mom Food aren’t even related to us.
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This is Dimitri:
Dimitri and I hang out on rec.food.cooking, and when he posted the following short essay on the newsgroup, I asked him if I could repost it here, because it’s exactly the sort of thing we talk about on this blog. He graciously allowed it.
[On a personal note, I cringed at calling Lupe “our ‘girl’”, but yeah, that’s the way we talked in those days, and I want to thank Dimitri for the quotation marks, showing that he’s aware it’s not how we refer to folks now.]
Remembering Lupe by Dimitri
I spent many of my teen age years in Mexico City.
Our “girl” Lupe had charge of the house and the kitchen. If I wanted to eat or to practice my Spanish I hung out in the kitchen with Lupe.
One of our favorite dishes was Enchiladas Suizas invented by and made famous by Sanborns in down town
Here’s how Lupe made them:
She simmered a chicken and stripped off the meat saving the broth.
She then stripped off the outer husks from a bunch of tomatillos and par boiled them for several minutes.
When tender she added them to a blender with a small amount of the boiling water and liquefied, adding several Serrano chilies. She then heated a little oil and added the liquefied sauce to the hot pan adding a minced white onion and several cloves (teeth) of garlic, allowing the sauce to simmer and stay simmering.
She then heated a pan of oil (maybe 1/2 inch or so).
The fresh corn tortillas were then dipped into the oil to soften and then into the tomatillo sauce then filled with chicken and some kind of fresh white cheese.
The rolled enchiladas were placed into an open casserole pan and placed in the oven with a small amount of sauce spooned over the top.
When served I remember she called the cream, creama agria (sour cream) with extra sauce spooned over the plate & the cream on the top.
A nice memory – once in a while I walk into a Mexican joint that smells like Lupe’s kitchen.
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I run The Mom Food Project, which was born out of love for my mom and a desire to preserve the recipes of my childhood, which didn't actually exist in written form until I quizzed my mom and wrote the recipes down.
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